Located just a few miles south of the well-known coastal towns of Capitola and Santa Cruz, the tiny, less frenetic burg of Aptos often gets lost in the shuffle.  But that's all the more reason to head here for a restorative getaway stay.

Aptos was first inhabited by the Oholne Indians, and then by Rafael Castro, who received the property in 1833 as a 6,000-acre land grant to raise cattle.  The property started breaking up in 1872 when sugar millionaire Claus Spreckles bought 2,400 acres from Castro.  He built a summer home and Deer Park, which he stocked with deer, elk, and other game.  Most of the village was built between 1850 and 1900, when it was a busy logging town, and at one time it bustled with 13 saloons and 2 railroad stations.

Because Aptos is a very confusing town to find your way around in, it's smart to carry a good map (the Visitors Bureau will send one free). When I was visiting, I found myself going 'round and 'round in scenic circles.  At one point in the late afternoon, I got  an unwanted souvenir ticket for making a left-hand turn at the poorly marked intersection of Spreckles and Soquel drives, which seems especially designed to snag out-of-towners.  Be careful.

Once I got my bearings, I found myself seeking three main areas.

APTOS VILLAGE

Sprinkled along Soquel Drive just northeast of Highway 1, tiny Aptos Village stretches for about two blocks and holds several restaurants, an assortment of shops, and an historic inn.

But your time is best spent back among the tall, dense redwood groves found along Aptos Creek Road as it meanders into The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park. An easy trail here leads to the epicenter of the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake.  Or pack a lunch and take a guided 3-hour Llama Safari deep into the forest.  This unusual outing benefits Dragon Slayers, a therapeutic horsemanship program for the handicapped.

In order to really enjoy this relatively undiscovered area, I spent a night at the secluded Mangels House bed & breakfast, which is adjacent to the park.  Built in 1886 by the brother-in-law of Claus Spreckles, this Italianate Victorian was bought by Jacqueline and Ron Fisher in 1979 to raise their family in.  When the kids were grown, they found the house too big for just two people, but Jacqueline didn't want to leave.  She decided instead to give innkeeping a try and in 1985 converted her home to a B&B.  Thank goodness for us, because this mansion is a delight to explore. 

Afternoon port and cookies are served in a huge communal drawing room with an unusual rough-cut granite fireplace.  Inside, shelves of books invite browsing, and outside, a well-tended English-style garden with gazebo and fountain invites lingering.  A ping-pong table beckons from the back porch, but my companion and I preferred relaxing with the inn lap cat on the wraparound verandah's porch swing.  You can also make an appointment for a therapeutic massage or footbath in an adjacent cottage.

The attractive high-ceilinged guest rooms here are individually decorated.  Mine, known as the Guest Room, featured fresh tulips and forget-me-nots from the garden, lace-edged bed linens, and a fabulous marble sink that is original to the house.  An unusual Victorian door-window led out to an upstairs porch. 

Located on four acres of lawn, orchard, and woodland set way back from any well-traveled road, and with no TVs or radios, Mangels House enjoys blissfully silent nights.  We slept so soundly that we almost missed the 9 a. m. breakfast.  Fortunately, subdued noises got us moving, and a trail of fragrant aromas led us to a cheery dining room where we enjoyed homemade scones, fresh fruit, and scrambled eggs in puff pastry--all served by the charming innkeeper.

For an informal dinner, have Jackie order up the authentic black English taxi from Britannia Arms in the village.   For no charge, they'll come out and get you and, after you've enjoyed an authentic pub dinner, take you back. 

If you're in the mood for a gourmet feast, opt for the short drive to Bittersweet Bistro.  Though situated unpromisingly at the edge of a shopping center, this restaurant does not disappoint.  Owner/chef Thomas Vinolus, who likes to use high quality local ingredients whenever possible, and wife Elizabeth operate it inside an historical building  that once sat right smack in the middle of Highway One. 

Beautifully remodeled, with original art decorating its walls, the restaurant is simple yet elegant--just like the food.  Our dinner started with a shared pear and blood orange salad accented with Roquefort cheese and arranged on a plate splashed with a colorful balsamic glaze.  Entrees were a delicious Mediterranean angel hair pasta with tomatoes, pine nuts, and feta cheese, and a delicate grilled fresh Mahi Mahi served atop garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed fresh spinach. 

Portions are large, but we managed to save room for Death by Chocolate--a giant platter showcasing some of the from-scratch chocolate desserts the restaurant is justly famous for.  Enough for three or four people, it held a variety of outrageous concoctions, including a heavenly chocolate mousse and a devilishly refined chocolate bread pudding. 

SEASCAPE RESORT

Located in an area technically called Rio Del Mar, this cliff-top resort offers spacious contemporary condominium units with expansive ocean views.

Want to have a marshmallow roast on the beach?  A bellman can take you down to the beach in a cart, build you a fire, and leave you with the makings for s'mores.  Facilities include a hot tub, 2 pools, and an adjacent 18-hole golf course and sports club with 9 tennis courts and a fully equipped gym.  Meals can be enjoyed in the ocean-view restaurant or from room service. 

Families are welcome and can look forward to a playground for the kids and, in the summer, an inexpensive children's program. 

Across the street, a small shopping center holds the full-service Sanctuary Day Spa. 

Also in the center is Palapas Restaurant y Cantina Mexican restaurant.  Featuring a ceiling resembling a seaside thatched-roof bungalow and boasting both comfortable half-moon booths and expansive ocean views, this popular restaurant specializes in fresh seafood.  Among the temptations are sand dabs grilled in white wine and served with a light tomatillo sauce, a spicy version of scampi, and crabmeat enchiladas.  Since this area of Monterey Bay has a large population of vegetarians, many good vegetarian selections are also available.  I enjoyed a delicious enchilada filled with marinated tofu and topped with guacamole. 

As is often the case in restaurants, sometimes other diners inadvertantly provide a bit of entertainment.  I found my eye drawn to two attractive surf bunnies.  Sporting wooly blond dreadlocks and deep in an intense, dramatic conversation, with the expansive ocean view behind them, they were positively mesmerizing.  All this and fabulously crisp complimentary tortilla chips with just-right dipping salsa, too!

SEACLIFF STATE BEACH

As we repeatedly got lost on the area's winding roads, we found ourselves at locally popular Seacliff State Beach more than once.  After parking in a meter-free area, it is a short, scenic walk to view the Palo Alto--a former tanker that was converted into a nightclub in 1930.  Bankruptcy caused it to fold after just two seasons, and the next year it cracked in a storm.  Its current incarnation is as an unusual fishing pier.  Campsites are also available in the park.

Should you want to stay in the area longer, Capitola and Santa Cruz are just a few miles to the north.  Both cities are loaded with exciting attractions and restaurants, and worthy of a look-see before heading home.

MORE INFORMATION

Aptos Chamber of Commerce  7605 Old Dominion Ct. #A, Aptos 95003, 800-APTOSCC (278-6722), 408-688-1467.

Annual Events: 

The Aptos Fourth of July Parade is billed as "the world's shortest."

Getting There:

Located approximately 80 miles south of San Francisco.  Allow 1 1/2 to 2 hours.  I recommend taking Highway 280 one way, and Highway One the other.  These magnificently scenic routes make getting there part of the fun.

Lodging:

Mangels House  570 Aptos Creek Rd., 408-688-7982.  Rooms $115 to $150.

Restaurants:

Britannia Arms  8017 Soquel Dr., 408-688-1233.

Palapas Restaurant y Cantina  21 Seascape Village, 662-9000. Lunch and dinner daily. Reservations advised.

Other:

Llama Safari  408-688-6699.  $20/person.  Children must be at least age 10.  Reservations required 1 week in advance.

Sanctuary Day Spa  16A Seascape Village, 408-688-SPAS.