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This is an update of the 6th edition of WEEKEND ADVENTURES IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA |
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ã copyright 2001 Carole Terwilliger Meyers |
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FAST INDEX (click on item of interest) |
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SAN FRANCISCO · The Archbishop's Mansion 1000 Fulton St./Steiner St., on Alamo Square, (800) 543-5820, (415) 563-7872, fax (415) 885-3193. Website: www.sftrips.com. 3 stories, 15 rooms; $$$-$$$+; 2-night min. on weekends. Some fireplaces. Afternoon wine & cheese, continental breakfast. Free parking. Dating back to the Victorian era, this fabulous French-style chateau was once the residence of the town's second Archbishop. Each romantic room is named after an opera and decorated uniquely, and though all are desirable, some are more so than others. Rooms circle a three-story, curved mahogany grand staircase surmounted by a leaded-glass skylight, which is truly worthy of the name grand. A tiny elevator is also available. All guest rooms are cozy and furnished with antiques, and many feature partial canopied beds. The magnificent Don Giovanni Suite features an extraordinary four-poster bed with a full wooden canopy (the perfect place to be in the event of an earthquake). The bed, which was originally in a French castle, is decorated with carved feet, cherub faces, wolves, and more and has a crocheted lace and silk trim. The suite poses guests with the delightful dilemma of choosing between a soothing shower that surrounds you with seven spraying heads, or a long soak in a bubbly tub. The shower won with me, and I was enveloped in a warmth as complete as that of a deep, deep tub. Public rooms feature painted frescoes and beautiful woodwork, and the lobby holds a 1904 Bechstein grand piano once owned by Noel Coward. Delightfully, breakfast is delivered to the room along with the morning paper. · Anna's Danish Cookie Co. 3560 18th St./Valencia, in the Mission, (415) 863-3882, fax (415) 863-7408. Open Tu-Sat 8:30am-5pm. $6.85/pound. MC, V. Sold nowhere but at this store, Anna's Danish butter cookies have been made here since 1933. You can buy just a few, or a box or tin filled to the brim. · Beach Chalet 1000 Great Highway/Ocean Beach, (415) 386-VIEW, fax (415) 386-4125. Website: www.beachchalet.com. L&D daily, SunBr; $-$$. Child menu. Reservations suggested. MC, V. Free parking lot adjoins. Built in 1925 by San Francisco Architect Willis Polk, this historic colonnaded Spanish stucco building with terra-cotta roof tiles is at the western end of Golden Gate Park, across the street from the Pacific Ocean. It has served as a tea house and as an army signal station in the past, and the upstairs is now a wildly popular brewpub with ocean views from every table. Target your visit for lunch, when the menu is less pricey and the views can be enjoyed uninterrupted by sun-shielding shades. Don't miss the beer sampler or the full-flavored, though essentially fizzless, house-made root beer. Two standouts on the menu are the hamburger made with flavorful Niman-Schell ground chuck and the herb-crusted rotisserie roasted chicken with garlic mashed potatoes. Sausage dishes are also usually available, and the kitchen is famous for its achiote-spiced chicken wings. Desserts are costly, but the fussy Chocolate Treasure Chest--made with hard chocolate sides and filled with espresso mousse--and the pastry chef's signature Sandcastle--the ultimate vertical dessert, whimsically composed of a flourless chocolate truffle cake with bittersweet chocolate sauce and placed vertically between two chocolate castle-shaped cookies--are worth it. A nickel from each beer sold goes to charity, and live music is scheduled every night but Sunday. When the restaurant isn't too busy, informal tours of the brewery are available upon request. Downstairs, the Visitors Center((415) 666-7024) displays natural history exhibits and colorful WPA wall frescoes depicting life in San Francisco during the depression. Interesting local souvenirs, including authentic street signs and parking meters, can be purchased in the City Store((415) 831-4758) operating in an alcove. · Brasserie Savoy 580 Geary St./Jones St., 3 blocks from Union Square, (415) 441-2700, fax (415) 441-7172. B&D daily; $$-$$$. Reservations advised. AE, MC, V. Valet parking $7. With dark wooden walls, comfortable benches, and a horseshoe-shaped zinc-topped bar, this cozy spot perfectly captures the essence of a Parisian brasserie. In my opinion the food surpasses the best found in France in that it is geared to American tastes. For breakfast you'll find traditional oeuf (egg) dishes and pastries as well as croque Monsieur and Madame sandwiches and beef cheek hash. Menus change weekly. Dinner appetizers might include a creamy pork-pistachio-black truffle spread for toasts. Main dish possibilities include the chef's signature dish of tender, tasty beef cheeks in burgundy sauce with horseradish mashed potatoes, a classic roasted chicken, and a lighter salmon loaf with champagne sauce. As would be expected, salads come after the dinner, followed by dessert--perhaps a perfectly shaped poached pear served with chocolate sauce and hazelnuts or a buttery apple tart with ice cream. Wines are exclusively French. The well-priced Savoy Hotel((800) 227-4223, (415) 441-2700, fax (415) 771-0124. 7 stories; 83 rooms; 3 non-smoking floors; $$$-$$$+. Restaurant; complimentary afternoon tea. Valet parking $18.) offers attractively decorated rooms featuring fluffy feather beds and goose down pillows. A complimentary overnight shoe shine service is also included. · Caffe Sport 574 Green St./Columbus, in North Beach, (415) 981-1251. L&D Tu-Sat; $$. Reservations advised.No credit cards. The bad news is that the cramped and uncomfortable seating of yore remains, but the good news is that the infamous slow and surly service are gone. And it is easy now to get a reservation. Celebrate by checking out the still-funky decor and still-incredible food. Waiters seem trained to nudge diners into ordering more than they think they need, but I've never been disappointed with the recommendations. Your best bet is to go with it--you'll eat it all. The scrupulously fresh prawns in garlicky white sauce and the pasta in pesto are both superb. · Cordon Bleu 1574 California St./Polk St., (415) 673-5637. L Tu-Sat, D Tu-Sun; $. No credit cards.With just nine counter seats and three tiny tables, this miniscule Vietnamese restaurant is one of the oldest in the city and has been under the same management since 1976. From the counter you can watch the entire cooking process while sipping a complimentary mug of hot tea. Satisfying one-plate meals consists of a large scoop of rice topped with light tomato-based meat gravy and a choice of deep-fried imperial roll, tasty barbecued beef satay (listed on the menu as shish kebab), and barbecued chicken. That's it! The Lumiere movie theater ((415) 352-0810) is right next door, and a host of interesting shops are just around the corner. · E&O Trading Company 314 Sutter St./Grant Ave., 2 blocks from Union Square, (415) 693-0303. Website: www.EOTrading.com. L&D daily; $$. Reservations suggested. AE, MC, V. The sleek,quiet exterior here belies the warm, roaring interior designed to resemble an Indonesian trading company warehouse. Live piano music keeps things jumping in the busy bar, and is also enjoyed throughout the restaurant. Well-positioned seating for meals is found both upstairs, where some diners have views of the street and others can watch the action in the bar downstairs, and adjoining the bar, where there is also a counter with tall stools overlooking the kitchen. House-made beers and fruit soda syrups are the perfect accompaniment to the mild-mannered but complexly flavored Indonesian fare. Sharing a variety of items from the unusual menu is the way to go. We composed a fabulous dinner of lamb naan (stuffed bread); Cambodian lettuce cups filled with an exotic mixture of pork, shrimp, peanuts, and coconut; Thai crab cakes with a tangy red curry sauce; a papaya-avocado salad with spicy Asian greens; and a delicious Hawaiian walu fish with a black-and-tan sesame seed crust served atop a bed of rice atop green long beans. Desserts are all made in house. For the perfect finale, select one from the bamboo tray brought to your table--perhaps a mango creme brulee or a tropical Napoleon--and order up some fragrant World Peace licorice-peppermint looseleaf tea, served in a heavy metal pot. Before leaving, check out the bamboo birdcage collection hanging just off the bar area, the restroom decor, and the beer brewing vats downstairs. · Lovejoy's Antiques & Tea Room 1195 Church St./24th St., in Noe Valley, (415) 648-5895. Tu-Sun 11-7; $. Reservations taken for 4+. AE, MC, V. Cozy as anything I've encountered in England, this tiny, absolutely charming spot provides a welcome retreat from the city streets. And you can shop while you sip: Everything is for sale--from the tea cups to the furniture. The menu offers all things English--toasted crumpets, scones, tea sandwiches, sausage rolls, pasties. Tea service ranges from a simple cream tea to an expansive high tea, and a special Wee Tea is served to children. I say, old chap, what fun! · Marrakech 419 O'Farrell St./Taylor St., (415) 776-6717. Dinner daily; $$. Passing through the doors of this oasis in the urban jungle takes you into the enveloping womb-like warmth of an exotic Middle Eastern bazaar. Resembling a posh adult playpen, the main room has comfortable padded benches and round tables circling the perimeter with low stools supplementing the seating. Diners have a choice of six complete dinners. The traditional Moroccan foods include a kaleidoscope plate of colorful vegetable salads, a flaky bastella pastry filled with a sweet chicken-toasted almond mixture, and couscous. Main course choices include a simple but divine chicken with lemon and olives as well as several rabbit, lamb, and shrimp dishes. Belly dancing is scheduled nightly. · Murray's 740 Sutter St./Taylor St., 3 blocks from Union Square, (415) 474-6478, fax (415) 474-0831. B&D daily; $$$. Reservations suggested. AE, MC, V. Valet parking $8.50.Set up in a former garden greenhouse, this wonderful glass-enclosed dining room has metamorphized into a contemporary "green" house. Now the color refers to a kitchen policy enacted by executive chef Philipe La Mancusa of using organic produce whenever possible, of avoiding any meats from animals that are endangered or caught cruelly, and of patronizing local suppliers. The drinking water is filtered four times, the ice is made with filtered water, and the menu is printed on recycled paper. All this, and the chef has a sense of humor, too! A main dish dubbed "Assassinated Chicken" is actually a roasted chicken breast on a bed of black beans, topped with a delicious, complex mole sauce and garnished with rose petals and kiwi slices. (This dish was inspired by the movie "Like Water for Chocolate.") And then there is the "Jamaica Me Crazy" spiced pork loin with yams and greens. Feeling unadventuresome? Steak, fish, baby back ribs, tea-smoked duck, and several vegetarian items are all here, too. Appetizers include a cioppino cake (made with a variety of seafood found in the namesake stew), a soup to "fit the day" (one rainy day a full-flavored spicy gumbo seemed perfect), and a sampler plate of house-made sausages, venison jerky, and pretzels. Desserts are rich and satisfying. Just off the restaurant is San Francisco's only hotel Cigar and Cognac Lounge, where a large selection of cigars and after-dinner drinks are available. Recently refurbished, the well-priced Canterbury Hotel (750 Sutter St., (800) 227-4788, (415) 474-6464, fax (415) 474-0831. Website: www.Canterbury-Hotel.com.) in which the restaurant is located,features comfortable, cozy rooms. Complimentary workout facilities are available at a nearby gym. On Saturday evenings at 10:30 p.m. the hotel hosts "Nightcaps," when professional storytellers are on hand to spin some bedtime tales. One cognac, sherry, or port is included with the $14.75 per person admission fee. Through December 1998, a $130 "Nightcaps Overnight Package" includes deluxe room, souvenir cotton nightshirt, and admission to the storytelling event. · Plouf40 Belden Pl./Bush St., in the Financial District, (415) 986-6491, fax (415) 986-6492. Website: www.plouf.com. L M-F, D M-Sat; $$. AE, MC, V. Reservations advised. Specializing in steamed mussels and offering eight different versions, this seafood bistro is so contemporary French that after just a few minutes you'll feel you've been beamed onto the French Riviera. Our waiter, dressed in a white and black-striped shirt and sporting a charming, authentic French accent, could do no wrong. He brought my husband a huge iron bowl full of mussels pastis (about 50 or 60 prepared with fennel, tomato, and onion) with a side of perfect thin, crisp pommes frites. Stacked bowls for discarded shells were removed regularly. I enjoyed peppered ahi tuna atop mashed potatoes in a mushroom and truffle foie gras sauce. A variety of meats, several pastas, and more seafood items, including fish & chips with aioli sauce, round out the menu. Good wine choices straight out of France include Muscadet, Sancerre, and Burgundy. For dessert we shared three profiterols--little cream puff shells filled with banana ice cream and topped with warm chocolate and carmel sauces. As they do in the south of France, outside tables fill the alley closed to cars. Only, as we locals know, the weather here isn't as enticing as it is there. The dining room features a high pressed-tin ceiling and has booths as well as a bank of intimate bench-and-chair tables for two. In sync with the name, which translates as "splash," stuffed sports fish decorate the walls. · The Steps of Rome Trattoria362 Columbus Ave./Grant St., (415) 986-6480, fax (415) 984-0611. E-mail: stepsofrom@aol.com. Website: www.citysearch.com/sfo/stepsofrome.DW-M;$$. Reservations accepted. Reminiscent of one of the many tiny Italian restaurants found in New York City, this charming little spot has several tables in a street-level room, and more up narrow stairs in a second-floor dining room--all with sidewalk views. The menu is a choice of delicious house-made pastas and more substantial meat entrees. My daughter specifically wanted gnocchi, which was not on the menu. As we considered leaving, the waiter assured us he could get whatever we wanted. And, indeed, he produced a gnocchi prepared to her specifications that put a smile on her teenage face. Desserts are exceptional and include a cliche tiramisu as well as a memorable creamy gelatin with fruit sauce. Service is attentive and cheerful. I must admit the food quality surprised me considering a barker (who appears to be one of the owners) is used to bring people in. Just a few doors down, the related though more informal Steps of Rome Cafe offers less expensive dining with a similar menu. · Tavolino 401 Columbus Ave./Vallejo St., in North Beach, (415) 392-1472, fax (415) 397-7244. 11:30am-1am daily; $$. MC, V. Valet parking $5. With two walls of windows and tables wrapped around the narrow L-shaped interior, this casual Venetian-inspired wine bar gives everyone a good view of something. When weather permits, alfresco sidewalk dining can be enjoyed. Cicchetti--small dishes of finger food that are Italy's answer to Spain's tapas--comprise the menu: Amaretto-braised duck on polenta, steamed shellfish, tramezzini sandwiches, sea bass with pine nuts, and the house specialty--sturgeon saltimboca. Over 100 Italian and Italianesque wines, including sparkling Prosecco, are offered, as is a classic bellini and a variety of grappas. Simple, delightful desserts include tiny chocolate amaretti and buckwheat cake filled with bitter orange marmalade. · Tosca242 Columbus Ave./Broadway, in North Beach, (415) 986-9651. Open daily 5pm-2am; $. No cards. Opened in 1919, this popular bar roars with excitement. It is a hangout for actors and writers, and the jukebox is said to have great selections--if only you could hear them. Seating is at an uninspired collection of tables surrounded by wall-hugging, comfy red banquettes. The house drink is a yummy brandy-laced Ghirardelli hot chocolate. · Vertigo600 Montgomery St./Clay St., in the Financial District, (415) 433-7250, fax (415) 732-7270. L M-F, D M-Sat. Reservations suggested. AE, MC, V. Valet parking at dinner. Named for the acclaimed Alfred Hitchcock film, this sophisticated restaurant is situated in the base of the Transamerica Pyramid. Several of the building's supporting beams have been cleverly incorporated into its design. Unsual lighting fixtures add visual interest. The best seats in the bi-level dining room are right-angle booths nestled into large side windows overlooking an adjacent redwood grove; they allow couples to look out into the room and at each other--an unusual arrangement. Though it changes regularly, a recent menu included roasted tomato soup, trout stuffed with tomatoes and hazelnuts, and Bolinas halibut with a side of pastina, corn, peas, and wild mushrooms. A variety of meat dishes and an imaginative vegetarian dish (perhaps squash blossoms stuffed with goat cheese) are also offered. For dessert, the parfait of raspberry granita and vanilla cream is a must. Served on a plate edged with a black-and-white checkerboard design, it positively gave me vertigo. · The WaterfrontPier 7/Embarcadero at Broadway, on The Embarcadero, (415) 391-2696. L&D daily; $$-$$$. Reservations advised. Free valet parking. Located next to a public walking pier, this veteran restaurant was recently remodeled. The menu in the smaller downstairs cafe/bar is a bit more casual and less expensive than upstairs in the more formal restaurant, but both areas offer the same mesmerizing jewel of a bay view overlooking Treasure Island and the Bay Bridge. Pelicans, sailboats, and the occasional tugboat compete with the East/West cuisine for your attention. Tasty examples from the restaurant menu include a starter of black sesame and roasted garlic flan served with Maine blue crab and a shitake-daikon dice. Braised monkfish, served dramatically in a lotus "wrap," is a signature dish. More fresh fish as well as quail, lobster, and filet of beef are on the menu. Desserts are beautifully presented and include a flavorful, vibrantly colorful passion fruit-strawberry bombe and a Fuji apple and rhubarb tarte tatin with sake-creme fraiche ice cream. In addition to a large variety of seafood items, the cafe menu offers salads, pastas, and steaks. · Zarzuela2000 Hyde St./Union St., on Russian Hill, (415) 346-0800, fax (415) 346-0880. L&D M-Sat; $$. No reservations. MC, V. With a cozy, yet open dining room warmed by butter-yellow Mediterranean walls, this gem serves delicious Spanish tapas. Each meal starts with bread and olive oil and a complimentary plate of exquisite olives. For a terrific tapas dinner begin with a shared salad and small plate of salted almonds. Continue with grilled eggplant rolled around creamy goat cheese, crisp fried potatoes with garlic and sherry vinegar, and shrimps sautéed in garlic and olive oil. Add a daily special such as fresh sardines, and you've got a filling, well-priced meal. Larger plates such as traditional Catalan seafood stew, grilled lamb chops, and ox-tail stew are also available, as is, of course, paella. Wash it all down with a traditional sherry. Sponge cake stuffed with fruit and soaked in liqueur is a perfect ending. After, jump on one of the cable cars passing by outside and go for a ride. COAST SOUTH Where to Eat · Rasoi 1218 Mission St., (408) 425-1020. L&D daily. $$. V. At lunch, a bargain buffet features four vegetarian and two non-vegetarian entrees. The regular menu offers traditional dishes as well as some more unusual items, including tandoori phool--marinated cauliflower cooked in a clay tandoori oven. An unexciting dish, I thought I was a fool to have ordered it until I had the idea of pureeing the leftovers at home, turning it into a soup. Yum. · California Wine Tours22455 Broadway, Sonoma, (800) 294-6386, (707) 939-7225, fax (707) 939-7240; 5-hour tour $39/person. Customized winery tours to any region of the wine country can be arranged. You just sit back and relax in a stretch limo, sipping something cool from the complimentary beverage bar while leaving the driving to a classy tuxedoed professional. Printed itineraries are provided. Round-trip ferry rides from Pier 39 in San Francisco can be included for an additional fee. What to Do · Cameo Theater 1340 Main St., (707) 963-9779. This tiny first-run movie theater is equipped with posh velvet seats and Dolby digital sound, making it well worth a visit. Special performances are sometimes scheduled. When offered, "Silverado Squatters," based on the book by Robert Louis Stevenson and performed live by local resident Donald Davis, is a don't-miss. Wineries · Domaine Charbay Winery & Distillery4001 Spring Mountain Rd., (800) M-DISTIL, (707) 963-9327, fax (707) 963-3343. E-mail: Susan@domainecharbay.com. Website: www.domainecharbay.com. Located off a remote scenic road, at almost 2,300-feet, this "still on the hill," as it is fondly nick-named, is totally family-run and-operated. Co-owner Miles Karakasevic, who hails from Yugoslavia, is a 12th generation winemaker and master distiller. Spirits are double-distilled by hand in classic Alambic pot stills. The winery is known for exceptional Ports, Brandies, and liqueurs--among them a grappa and a black walnut liqueur. When Robert Louis Stevenson quipped that "sightseeing is the art of disappointment," he couldn't have meant it to apply to this scenic area. Where to Stay · Cottage Grove Inn1711 Lincoln Ave., (800) 799-2284, (707) 942-8400. Website: www.cottagegrove.com. 16 cabins; 100% non-smoking; $$$+. All wood-burning fireplaces, VCRs. Afternoon wine, continental breakfast. Individual cottages, each decorated in a different theme, nestle here in an historic elm grove. All are equipped with a deep whirlpool soaking tub for two, a stereo system, and a refrigerator. · Silver Rose Inn & Spa351 Rosedale Rd., (800) 995-9381, (707) 942-9581, fax (707) 942-0841. Website: www.silverrose.com. 20 rooms; 100% non-smoking; $$$-$$$+. No TVs; some fireplaces. Tennis courts, putting green, weight room, 2 pools, 2 hot tubs. Continental breakfast. Sitting amid acres of vineyards and mountains, this peaceful enclave provides quiet, serene views. Architecture is contemporary, with huge stone fireplaces and rustic beams in the public rooms. My favorite guest rooms--The Porch Room, Cleopatra's Room, Hello Hollywood, and The Library--are found in the Inn the Vineyard building, where many rooms feature up-close vineyard-side views and in-room whirlpool tubs for two. However, the property's original building, the Inn on the Knoll, has a more impressive public room and pool area and is just a few steps from the property's small spa. A large wine bottle-shaped pool is located between the two buildings. The spa, which is available only to guests, offers a variety of water treatments and massage. The pool, hot tub, and spa are fed by underground hot springs. Plans call for a restaurant and winery to open soon. Where to Eat · Smokehouse Cafe1458 Lincoln Ave., in the historic Calistoga Depot, (707) 942-6060, fax (707) 942-5431. B,L,&D daily; $-$$. MC, V. Chef extraordinaire Hunter Austin promises that you won't find vertical food, aloof waiters, or staggering prices in his restaurant. Instead, you'll enjoy delicious down-home American food and barbecue served in unpretentious surroundings. Hunter smokes his own meats on-site, and the only frozen item he uses is ice cream. Particularly good appetizers include Sacramento Delta crawfish cakes and 101-proof Wild Turkey sausage. Memorable main courses include tasty Arkansas slow pig, fabulous mesquite-smoked beef back ribs, and Texarkana cherrywood-smoked barbecued chicken. Meals are served with lumpy mashed potatoes, root vegetable and greens sauté, and unlimited cornbread. Call ahead to find out what's cooking in the way of weekend entertainment. What to Do · Getaway Adventures 1117 Lincoln Ave., (800) 499-2453, (707) 942-0332. Website: www.getawayadventures.com. 1-day $89/person. Guided bicycle trips visit several small wineries and include a gourmet picnic lunch. Overnight trips, complete with inn stays, are also available. Airport tranfer can be arranged. · Insalata's 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd./Barber Ave., (415) 457-7700, fax (415) 457-8375. L M-Sat, SunBr, D daily; $$. Reservations recommended. MC, V. The airy, open interior here is filled with good tables and even a few secluded booths, and the walls are decorated with large French pastels of fruits done by San Francisco artist Laura Parker. Mediterranean fare dominates the menu. Lunch offerings might include a few pastas, an unusual Tunisian seven-vegetable tagine with preserved lemons, and braised beef cheeks in cabbage wrap zested up with horseradish cream. All breads and desserts are made in house. At brunch try the tasty egg scramble with a side of perfectly browned and spiced homefries, or a Syrian chicken Fattoush salad tossed with toasted pita and a lemon-herb vinaigrette. But don't miss the to-die-for pecan sticky buns. Desserts are exotic: blood orange granita with vanilla bean Madeleines; creamy risotto pudding with Chianti-soaked figs and a crisp almond twist. By the way, Insalata is chef-owner Heidi Krahling's maiden name. This restaurant is situated in an area filled with prime antique shops. It's nice to time a meal here so you can do some browsing before or after dining. · Erik's Downtown Drive-In836 2nd St., (415) 454-6605. B,L,&D daily; $. This is a great place to stop for a quick snack or meal. The car hops are gone, so now you just park your car, order at the window, and then sit in a small inside dining area or outside at tables that resemble coke bottle tops. The fare is simple--burgers (including veggie burgers and ostrich burgers), dogs, cheese steaks, and chicken--but Italian sodas, fresh fruit shakes, and coffee specialties are also available. · The Counter 1901 University Ave./Martin Luther King, (510) 849-4165. L M-F, D M-Sat; $. MC, V. This tiny space offers only a few cramped tables and the promised counter, but people come here for the international menu of vegetarian and vegan cuisine. A few dishes for carnivores are also available. Soups, salads, sandwiches, and meatless burgers dominate the lunch menu. Dinner choices include French onion soup, spring rolls, Thai vegi-chicken, tofu chile, and several meatless burgers. · Raja Restaurant 2160 University Ave./Oxford St., (510) 848-7252. L M-Sat, D daily; $$. Reservations accepted. AE, MC, V.One of the best Indian restaurants in town, this sedate spot is particularly strong in its vegetarian offerings. Crisp vegetable samosa appetizers are stuffed with a spicy filling of potatoes and peas and served with a tart green cilantro sauce and a sweet tamarind sauce. Worthy bread dishes include garlic naan, onion kulcha (stuffed with onion and fresh cilantro), and aloo paratha (stuffed with potatoes, onion, ginger, and peas). Among the entrees are a superb dry aloo gobi (cauliflower and potatoes), a delightful channa masala (garbanzo beans), and a spicy aloo vindaloo (dumpling-like potaoes in a creamy hot sauce). Delicious dishes for carnivores include a garlic chicken kebab and a tasty chicken curry masala. · Smokey Joe's on Shattuck Ave./Cedar Ave., no phone. B&L daily, D F & Sat. No cards. The owner of this tiny hole-in-the-wall diner--basically a counter with stools plus several small tables--has been dishing up noteworthy breakfasts since 1973. Smokey is famous for his home fries and delicious omelettes. Everything is made to order, and the o.j. is squeezed after it is ordered. The all-vegetarian menu states this is "where the elite meet to eat no meat." Decor consists of '60s memorbilia--tie-dyed things, a large peace symbol brick. Live music is often scheduled evenings from 7 to 9 p.m. · Nadine's 4228 Park Blvd./Wellington, (510) 482-5303. D Tu-Sun; $$. MC, V. Reservations advised. Operating to please the residents of its Glenview neighborhood, this small restaurant is a great place to catch up with old friends. The menu is limited but well-executed; it changes frequently and often includes rustic European dishes. A particularly satisfying dinner here began with a grilled peach-arugula-goat cheese salad, followed by a deliciously spicy Hungarian goulash with mashed potatoes and fresh green beans. Dessert was a satisfying seasonal crisp made with nectarines and plums. |
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