by Carole Terwilliger Meyers
SAN FRANCISCO
What to Do
Tours
Dirty Harry Tour Closed. (see page 14)
Where to Stay
Canterbury Hotel Closed. (see page 41)
Where to Eat
Bocadillos 710 Montgomery St./Washington
St., Financial District, (415) 982-BOCA, fax (415) 982-0177; www.bocasf.com. B-L M-F, D M-Sat; $$. No reservations. Its name meaning literally "little sandwiches" in Spanish, this sleek,
contemporary spot specializes in tapas with a Basque flair. The mood is casual and service is quick, making it a prime stop-in for a quick, light meal. Tasty menu items include a small serrano ham sandwich
(a bocadillo) and heads-on prawns with garlic flakes and lemon confit, as well as humorously-named dishes like "pig trotters" with chopped egg salad and all-American dishes like baby back ribs. An order of olives
is a must, and save room for a delicious dessert--perhaps warm chocolate cake. Seating is at a bar, at high tables, and at a communal center table. Though no sangria is available, Spanish wines and
international beers are good.
Cafe de Paris-L'Entrecote Closed. (see page 61)
Cafe Marimba Closed. (see page 61)
Cha Cha Cha
1801 Haight St./Shrader St., (415) 386-7670. L-D daily. Booths. In a decor featuring blackened brick walls ringed with funky altars and an atmosphere of happy Latin music, this festive tropical
spot serves up delicious Caribbean fare. Seated in comfy half-moon booths sheltered by large potted plants, diners tend to select items to share tapas-style. Winners include the perfectly fried calamari, the
fabulous house specialty arroz con pollo with fried platanos, and superb fried new potatoes with chile aioli dip. One dish per diner plus a salad is just about right. A delicious sangria and ginger beer are
good choices for drinks.
Faz Closed. (see page 67)
Fior d'Italia Closed. (see page 67)
Golden Turtle Closed. (see page 70)
La Rondalla 901 Valencia St./20th St., (415) 647-7474. L-D Tu-Sun. Highchairs, booster seats, booths. No cards. Diners at this traditional Mexican
restaurant have a choice of three unpretentious rooms: a front room lined with booths and a long counter; a middle room with a bar, and a back room perfect to hide away in with kids. Mariachi bands play late
Tuesday through Sunday evenings from 9 p.m. Complete dinners come with refried beans, rice, salad, and corn tortillas. The menu offers generic Americanized Mexican dishes as well as some more unusual
items: asado (grilled beef topped with a tomato-onion-potato mixture), abobada (a pork version of asado), and lomo saltado (beef sauteed with green peppers, onions, and potatoes and topped with a spicy tomato
sauce). Goat meat items (birria), chicken mole, and chile verde are also very good, and the enchiladas are gigantic. A cooling flan makes the perfect finale. Sandwiches are on the lunch menu, and
breakfast items are served all day.
Lhasa Moon 2420 Lombard St./Scott St., (415) 674-9898. L Thur&F, D Tu-Sun; $. Semi-booths. Tibetan fare is served here in
a simple, but comfortable setting. For an introduction to this cuisine that is influenced by both China and India, start with a Himalayan salad of beans, fresh daikon radish, and carrots with a garlic
dressing. Steamed momo (dumplings) resemble Chinese pot stickers and come with beef, chicken, or veggie fillings. For the entree, Tibetan lamb or chicken curry is a good choice, as is the lamb stew made with
daikon radish and spinach and served with Tibetan steamed rolls. A side of steamed bread, a cup of flavorful hot butter tea, and a dessert of Tibetan-style cinnamon rolls round out an exotic meal. Numerous
vegetarian items are available.
Michael Mina 335 Powell St./Geary St., on Union Square, in The Westin St. Francis, (415) 397-9222, fax (415) 397-9220; www.michaelmina.net. D
daily; $$$+. Replacing the hotel's popular vintage Compass Rose, which was famous for its busy English-style decor and fussy afternoon tea, this spare, trendy, hot, hot spot serves the very best seafood.
Service is elegant and formal, and the white dinnerware designed by Chef Mina is Royal Doulton. Most items consists of a primary ingredient presented three different ways, allowing for an interplay of contrasting
sauces and techniques: tempura langoustine with maroon carrots and ginger, with pineapple quince and galangal, and with green papaya and mango; for the chocolate dessert plate: peanut butter pudding cake and
a peanut butter shake, banana bread pudding and banana pot de creme, devil's food cake and a caramel sundae. A three-course seasonal menu and a larger tasting menu are offered, but no a la carte items. The
wine list is grand--1,500 bottles--and ranges in price from $25 to $14,000, and the bill is as breathtaking as the food presentation.
Night Monkey Closed. (see page 80)
San Francisco Soup Company 50 Post St., in Crocker Galleria, (415) 397-SOUP, same fax; www.sfsoupco.com. M-F 7:30-4:30; $. Soups made from scratch are the star on the fast fare served up
here. Favorites include Chicken Pot Pie and Mexican Chicken Tortilla. Daily specials might be Louisiana Gumbo, Portabello Mushroom Barley, or West African Peanut. Salads, sandwiches, and cookies round
out the lunch menu. Breakfast items include hot cereals, pastries, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Branches are found at many other downtown locations.
Sukhothai Thai Cuisine
1319 9th Ave./Irving St., in the Sunset, (415) 564-7722, fax (415) 564-7723. L-D daily; $.
This cute little place has an atmospheric decor and a large menu selection with many hot dishes. Favorites among the extensive vegetarian options include deep-fried potato curry puffs, spicy string beans, a rainbow salad made with glass noodles and fried tofu, vegetables in a coconut milk-based red curry, and a vegetable mix in peanut sauce. Well-priced rice plates are available at lunch.
Tamal 1599 Howard St./12th St., (415) 864-2446, fax (415) 864-5836; www.tamalsf.com. L M-F, D M-Sat; $$. Reservations advised. A colorful, high-ceilinged dining room
sets the tone for enjoying the creative, tapas-size Mexican dishes served here. Organic ingredients are used, as are Niman Ranch meats. The tamale selection includes a Thai curry and a Creole
interpretation. A board out front announces specials, one of which—a thick, very garlicky white gazpacho garnished with grapes and almonds—is not to be missed. Flaky empanadas filled with Dungeness crab are
particularly tasty, as is the unusual chile relleno stuffed with goat cheese and fresh corn. Heartier dishes include Sonoma quail in a pomegranate reduction and lamb skewers rubbed with both ScharffenBerger coco
and fair trade coffee. Save room for the devilishly delightful "Diablo" dessert, which means "devil" and consists of a grilled banana topped with spicy chili sauce and served with a side of whipped avocado
cream. Fruity sangria and beers on tap are the perfect beverages.
Tartine Bakery 600 Guerrero St./18th
St., (415) 487-2600, fax (415)487-2605; www.tartinebakery.com. M 8-2, Tu-W 7:30-7, Thur-F 7:30-8, Sat 8-8, Sun 9-8; $. This small cafe is famous for its huge loaves of country-style bread made with
organic ingredients and wild yeasts. The bread is used for toast at breakfast and in sandwiches at lunch. A line generally snakes out the door--but it moves fast--and seating space is as limited as parking
spaces are difficult to find. Still, everything is so delicious—did I mention that pastries include an exquisite sugary morning bun, a jewel of an eclair, and the flakiest of croissants—that patrons seem not to
mind? Loaves of bread are available for purchase after 4 p.m.; other items are available until they run out. The best plan of attack is to have one person get in the order line while another holds a table,
preferably while sipping a drink purchased at the back counter. One of the oversize sandwiches (the croque monsieur is popular and ready immediately, while other hot pressed sandwiches require a 10-minute wait)
and a pastry dessert can easily fill two diners. Organic ingredients, local eggs, and Niman Ranch meats are used.
YaYa 2424 Van Ness Ave./Union St., (415) 440-0455, fax (415)
440-4745. D Tu-Sun; $$. Valet parking. Honoring the 9,000-year-old culinary tradition of Mesopotamian cuisine, this unusual restaurant features two large mural depicting a Babylonian landscape and
the Iranian city of Pam (destroyed in a 2004 earthquake). Colorful hanging, turban-style lights illuminate each table. Meals begin with complimentary bread and zatar, a dipping sauce of olive oil, thyme, and
sumac. Delights on the mouth-watering menu include a delicious Kelega (an Iraqi snack ravioli stuffed with dates and spiced with cardamom and cinnamon) and a refreshing fatoosh salad (featuring sumac-marinated red
onions, cucumber, mint, parsley, cliantro, radishes, and toasted pita bread). Entrees include fesenjoon (a flavorful classic Baghdad dish consisting of spiced shredded chicken cooked in pomegranate molasses and
walnuts) and sambosak (a vegetarian dish featuring delicate phyllo triangles stuffed with a mixture of Swiss chard, sumac, shitake mushrooms, and pine nuts and surrounded with a red bell pepper sauce). Kababs are
also available. Baklava surrounded with a rice-saffron pudding is the perfect conclusion along with a cup of mint tea or Turkish coffee.
Where to Stay
Hotel Carlton
1075 Sutter St./Hyde St. & Larkin St. (near Polk St.), 5 ½ blks. from Union Square, (800) 922-7586, (415) 673-0242, fax (415) 673-4904; www.carltonhotel.com. 9 stories; 163 rooms; $$-$$$+. Evening
wine; restaurant; limited room service. Inspired by the fact that 60 to 80% of its guests are from abroad, the hotel within this newly renovated 1927 building features an "international vintage" look. It
is decorated throughout with travel photographs and furnishings from around the world, and guest rooms feature a cream-saffron-persimmon-blue color scheme inspired by a vintage Indian sari. Original details
include intricate hand-carved moldings and banisters topped with wrought-iron pinecones. One-of-a-kind pieces decorate the lobby. Because the hotel isn't surrounded by buildings, most rooms have striking
views. Many adjoining rooms are available, and a complimentary shuttle downtown is provided.
Saha ((415) 345-9547; www.sahasf.com. B M-F, D Tu-Sat, SunBr; $$.)
serves a traditional American breakfast with Arabic influences, changing to Arabic fusion cuisine for dinner. The dark, exotic dining room, tucked away behind fabric curtains, features ebony wood-plank floors and a red-and-pink decor. Tasty dinner items include knaffe (ahi with kalamata olive-walnut relish and fig sauce), fattoush (chopped salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, Feta, olives, mint, cilantro, sumac and more), and classic Moroccan couscous. One dessert option is a moulton sweet chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream. "Saha" is an Arabic toast meaning "to good health."
101 SOUTH
PALO ALTO
What to Do
Frys Electronics 340 Portage Ave./El Camino Real (south of Page Mill Rd.), (650) 496-6000, fax (650) 496-6018. Everything
electronic is for sale in this gargantuan warehouse, and many refurbished items are available at good prices. It is the
place to come for one-stop comparison shopping. Need an answering machine? All available models are displayed here. Fresh flowers, both popular and esoteric magazines, and even candy are also among the inventory mix.
101 NORTH
MILL VALLEY
Where to Eat
First Crush Closed. (see page 212)
SAN RAFAEL
Where to Eat
The Rice Table
Closed. (see page 220)
HOPLAND
Where to Stay
Hopland Inn Closed. (see page 245)
I-80 NORTH
BERKELEY
What to Do
Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker factory tour 914 Heinz Ave./7th
St., (510) 981-4066; www.scharffenberger.com. Tours: Sat at 10:30, 11:30, 1:30, 2:30, & 3:30, and Sun-F at 10:30 & 2:30. Minimum age 10. Free. Reservations advised.
Operating inside a 1906 brick warehouse, this boutique factory turns out small batches of high-grade chocolate using cacao beans from Venezuela, Madagascar, and Papua New Guinea. The tour includes an informative
lecture enhanced with chocolate tasting, a stroll through the factory, and a visit to the themed gift shop.
In an interior intoxicatingly fragrant with chocolate, Café Cacao
((510) 843-6000, fax (510) 843-6004; www.cafecacao.biz. B-L daily, D Tu-Sat; $. No reservations for L; advised for D.)
serves up chocolate drinks and desserts galore—hot cocoa, scones studded with bittersweet chocolate and cherries, lofty bittersweet chocolate bread pudding—and some main courses--chocolate noodles with beef ragu, a chocolate sandwich. Plenty of conventional salads and entrees are also options. An outdoor patio is open in good weather.
Where to Eat
Beauregard's California Bistro 1373 Solano Ave./Ramona St., in Albany, (510) 526-7200; http://beauregardscaliforniabistro.com. Child menu. L Tu-Sat, D
Tu-Sun; $$. Reservations for 6+. This comfortable new spot features one big, open dining room and a visible kitchen. Two people with modest hunger will be content sharing a salad (try the pear,
pecan, and gorgonzola mix) and a thin-crusted pizza, a pasta, or a roasted Tuscan chicken. Portions are generous, and spicing is fearless. Gnocchi and more substantial entrees are also available.
Drinks include potent cocktails, a root beer float, and bittersweet hot chocolate made with steamed milk.
Chaat Cafe 1902 University Ave./MLK, (510) 845 1431, fax (510) 845-5796. L-D daily; $.
The price is right for the no-frills Indian meals served in this simple facility. Orders are placed at the counter in back and almost immediately delivered to the table. A variety of chaat (snacks
and appetizers) are available--samosas here are not oily and are stuffed with a tasty mixture of potatoes and peas. Several tandoori ovens turn out an assortment of meats plus exceptional nan. Curries are
available both a la carte or as a complete meal, and each day features a different tandoori and vegetarian plate special.
Filippos 2930 College Ave./Ashby Ave., (510) 644-3848;
www.filippos.biz. L-D daily, Sat-SunBr; $-$$. Reservations accepted. Operating within an inviting space, this contemporary Italian spot's menu includes a variety of antipasti and small
plates--among them tasty mushroom crostini—plus soups and salads. Entrees include chicken Marsala and cioppino as well as a selection of pastas and a potato gnocchi. The lunch menu adds sandwiches.
Service is fast, and prices are reasonable. After, shopping along this trendy avenue is a great way to work off a few calories.
Homemade Cafe On Sacramento St./Dwight Way,
(510) 845-1940. B-L daily. No cards.
Always crowded, this small, cozy cafe specializes in breakfast, which is available all day. Choose from the basic egg items, including omelettes and scrambles, and from a large selection of specialties--a whole-wheat waffle, blueberry pancakes, cinnamon swirl French toast, cheese blintzes, and housemade granola. For a pittance, home fries can be upgraded to Home Fry Heaven (enhanced with cheese, salsa, sour cream, and either guacamole or pesto) and toast can be upgraded to coffee cake or a scone. All the la-de-da coffeehouse-style drinks are available, too. The unimpressed can opt for a sandwich after 11 a.m.
I-880 SOUTH
OAKLAND
Mekong Gardens 3766 Piedmont Ave./MacArthur Blvd., (510) 597-0700, fax (510) 601-6287. L-D M-Sat; $. With its retractable glass ceiling, the
back porch here is the spot to be on a nice day--soaking up some rays while dining on Southeast Asian cuisine. The Vietnamese dishes are generally simple and light, while the Cambodian dishes are more
complex. Menu winners include Amok-style flounder steamed in a banana leaf, flounder cooked in a clay pot, prawn curry, pea sprouts sautéed with garlic, and shaking beef (cubed filet mignon rolled in chopped
garlic and stir-fried).
Montclair Bistro 6118 Medau Pl./Moraga Ave., Montclair district, (510) 482-8282; www.montclairbistro.com. D Tu-Sun, SunBr; $$$. Reservations
advised. The California bistro cuisine served here, in elegant yet comfortable surroundings, includes Dungeness crab cakes, tasty salads, and a variety of seasonal soups as appetizers. Among the main
courses are full-flavored fish (salmon with baby veggies and a piquant dressing) and classic meats (roasted herb-crusted rack of lamb with white beans). Dessert choices are interesting, but smart diners order the
Frangelico-Grand marnier souffle in advance, so it is ready when they are.
Restaurant Peony 388 9th St./Franklin St., on 2nd floor in Pacific Renaissance Plaza, (510) 286-8866, fax
(510) 286-8868. Dim sum M-F 11-3, Sat-Sun 10-3; D daily. In the entryway here, chairs are lined up classroom-style for the usually long wait to get in. Once seated in the massive dining room, it is
the typical Hong Kong-style dim sum experience, with carts passing by loaded with exotic treats. This building has a convenient subterranean parking garage. After, get a walk-away Thai pearl tea at
SweetHeart Cafe (315 9th St., (510) 835-8136.), and do some grocery shopping in bustling Chinatown.
GOLD RUSH COUNTRY
NEVADA CITY
Where to Stay
Grandmere's Inn
Closed. (see page 350)
WINE COUNTRY
SONOMA
Where to Eat
The Girl and The Fig 110 W. Spain, in the Sonoma Hotel, (707) 938-3634, fax (707) 938-2064;
www.thegirlandthefig.com. L-D daily, SunBr; $$-$$$. Reservations advised. A signature arugula-goat cheese-pancetta-pecan-grilled fig salad is usually among the menu's assortment of figgy goodies in
this festive spot. Entrees might include a Liberty duck confit with French green lentils, appetizers a charcuterie platter, and desserts something flavored with intriguing herbs. The wine list favors
Rhone-style varietals from Sonoma and offers flights for comparing and contrasting. A back patio outfitted with a fountain is primo in warm weather.
Piatti
Closed. (see page 386)
