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VENETO AND VENICE

(excerpted by permission from Camping Europe; www.carousel-press.com)

Aristocratic, proud, and shamelessly self-satisfied, Venice is brilliant in her dress of gilded treasures. The whole scene shimmers with dreams of moonlight ecstasies. But it can feel like a very large, crowded museum so it must be approached and discovered like a cat seeking prey. Museums are closed on Mondays. When you've caught your breath after arriving at Piazza San Marco, visit the tourist office to purchase a good detailed map of the historic area and check the events happening while you're here. Don't depend on discovering Venice's treasures with a free map; they won't have the detail you need. To get to the tourist office, walk from the Piazza to the waterfront, and head west. The tourist office is by the vaporetti (boat buses) boarding and ticketing area. Wander through Venice's maze of waterways, over its ancient bridges, and into its tiny squares, enjoying the labyrinth. Take the vaporetti to the Accademia. Before entering the big museum wander over to the Palazzo Venier and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection which houses and eclectic display of excellent modern work and a whimiscal garden. Reboard the vaporetti back to the Accademia, from the side you departed, and ride up the Grand Canal to the Rialto Bridge. Cross over the bridge and, using your map, wander over to the Campo San Paulo, where you can rest with the locals and watch children play. Then visit Frai, a massive Gothic cathedral holding masterpieces by Titian and Bellini. Behind the cathedral is the Scoula Grande di San Rocco with its unrivaled collection of Tintorettos. You'll find cafes and trattorias nearby at prices the locals can afford. Wait to enjoy Piazza San Marco in the evening when the crowds have left. Then dance for free under the stars, while orchestras play from the sidelines. Take the ferry back to your campgrounds, enjoying warm breezes as you ponder the starlit sky and the fading silhouette of this most magical place.

On your second day, get a very early start, and take the ferry back to Venice. Wander over to the open market at the Rialto, where you'll see gondolas unloading their fruits and vegetables. Joke with the fish merchants while you examine their vast selection, noting the cuttlefish, Venice's specialty. Have a picnic lunch on the steps of the Accademia while you watch the gondolas slide by. With your guidebook in hand, you are ready to tackle the bigger stuff. The Accademia's fabulous collection documents the history of Venetian painting from the 14th to the 18th century. The treasures in the Palazzo Ducale vividly display the self-aggrandizement of the founding statesmen and Basilica di San Marco is a rich and exotic jewel case.

****CAMPING: Exit A4 north of the lagoon area, following signs to Lido di Jesolo. Drive south on the main road in the direction of Cavallino and Punta Sabbioni. There are plenty of campgrounds and markets. Many are full-scale resorts. These two are smaller. *In Punta Sabbioni, Camping Miramare, Lungomare D. (04-1966-150) or *In Cavallino, Camping Europa, (04-1968-069); both are close to the ferry and beach; bungalows; well maintained; open May-September; $$. There's parking at the ferry landing or take the bus.

CAMPING EUROPE
by Carol Mickelsen
ISBN:  0-917120-18-3  •  $19.95 • 348 pages • 250+ maps
2 charts/2 indexes  •  8 1/2" x 5 1/2" .